Alta Via Amelia, 10-18
Alta Via Amelia, stages 10-18, Giro Di Primiero
For the rest of her journey from Caprile, Amelia travelled by mule or on foot over more rugged and precipitous paths. Her second round trip went down Val Cordevole to Agordo, then over two difficult and steep passes, Airline and Cereda, to Primiero where she stayed with Signora Bonetti at the Aquila Nera. In 1872, there were no roads, or wheeled traffic, in or out of the village; everything arrived and departed on foot or hoof.
Amelia explored Val Di Canali, spotting the 'occhi' near the peaks of Cima dei Laste and Sasso d'Ortiga, on opposite sides of the valley. She sketched the dizzying landscape, surrounded by untrodden peaks, some of which had no name at the time.
Signora Bonetti baked a big cake to sustain Amelia on the next stage of her journey , to Predazzo. Amelia returned to Caprile over Passo Fedàia, on foot, in a heavy thunderstorm, back to the homely care of Signora Giovanna Pezzè at La Corona d'Oro.
It's an easy start to the second part of Alta Via Amelia, stages 10-18, downhill all the way to Agordo. Then it gets tougher as you climb the slopes of Monte Agner and through the narrow Forcella delle Mughe (de la Grave) into the spectacular Val di Canali.
You emerge onto the lunar landscape of the Altipiano delle Pale di San Martino, heading for the busy Rifugio Rosetta for a well-deserved rest. Staying over 2,000m altitude, you cross the upper slopes of Cimon della Pala, remembering how Amelia described this mountain: ""Not the Matterhorn itself, for all its cruel look and tragic story, impresses me with such a sense of danger, and such a feeling of smallness and helplessness, as Cimon della Pala.""
After crossing Passo Valles and Passo San Pellegrino, you pass through the decaying debris of World War 1, humbled by the sacrifice of our ancestors, but also inspired by Nature and the sanctity of the Spirits of the Dolomites. Dwarfed by the south face of Marmolada, you cross Passo Ombretta then it's all downhill back to Caprile.
Nine stages that combine to create a high-altitude and exciting roller-coaster.
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